Team caf.

The best place to get your cars customised!

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We have a long list of benefits right from free first service that you get to enjoy and the other benefits that come as a part of every service.


With every visit, you can avail a lot of discounts. Did you know that this is out little secret as to why we always have members over-flowing?


Insurance can save your life but that comes at a cost as well. We understand the difficulty and that is why we are here to solve that trouble with cheaper insurance policies.


A club that is fully focused on the welfare of your cars. We were small when we started and we aimed to help people realise their dream to customise their cars the way they want it to be. We understood that people needed a platform that they can be a part of and find it helpful. That is how we came into existence. 


You need not have to be our member to avail our services. However, we will be glad if you join us and become a member. This is because we launch a lot of special offers and benefits almost every day and only registered members get to enjoy it. Hurry up and register!


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Initially I was only a random customer, but when I learned about the benefits the member clients get to enjoy, I became a member as well. Today I am so happy that I can refer Team Caf to any of my peers and others.

Melina Matsoukas

I have never believed that I could turn my car into something that is as beautiful as this. They not only helped with a lot of tips but also helped me understand the right way of putting my car to use. Thanks to them!


Top 5 Car Cleaning Tips And Tricks

There can never be a person who doesn’t show automobile. People have always felt passionate about cars, and they have been working to buy one all the time. More than liking that has gone to become a craze especially with youngsters. So for all you car lovers, here we are coming with few tips and tricks that you will need to keep your car always crystal clear. With no further delay let us get to the list.

You need brushes. A lot of them:

When it comes to cleaning the internal post of your car, there are a lot of vents and grooves that have to be cleaned. That is why you need a lot of brushes and in different sizes as well. This way cleaning the internal part of your car will become easy. Also, make sure that the bristles of the brush aren’t too hard, there are still some delicate parts, and you do not wish them to have scratches.

Use a vacuum cleaner

Cars are exposed to different environments, and they are forced to travel in different climatic conditions. This will spoil both the external and internal look of your car. That is why you need a handy vacuum cleaner to suck the dust from the car. You can use them between the seats and the floor of the car and suck up the dust particles. The thing with the vacuum cleaner is that you can change the suction point and you can fix a different blower depending on which part of the car you are going to clean.

Keep the carpets clean

One of the important tasks in cleaning the car is that your carpets have to look clean. This is one way your car will look beautiful. No one knows why but for some reason a clean carpet always denotes a clean car. So make sure that you clean the carpet at least once in a week.

No cloth for the window or any glass pane:


Ther next important thing you will have to remember is that you are always supposed to keep the glass panes in the car clean. This way you will have a clean external look. Remember when you wash the glass make sure that you wipe it off using a paper towel or a newspaper instead of cloth. This will make the glass look much clearer and cleaner.

Avoid giving your car a sunbath!

Your car need not have to have fun bath very often this way you are spoiling the external look of your car. So remember to cover your car if you are someone who lives in one of the hottest cities in the world. So cover the car and make sure it looks beautiful.

Tips & Tricks: Top Things That You Should Have In Your Car

Car is one of the common vehicles that most of us have started using today. Car from the status of being called as a luxury good is now being adored as a necessary product. This has been the situation for almost over a decade. That is the reason as to why there is an increase in the number of car users, and the movement of cars has grown tremendously. So if you are reading this, you must also be a car user. Thereby we are listing some of the things that you must always have in your car.

Windscreen mount for your mobile phone:

This is the most important thing that your car will ever carry for you. Today we have completely removed the need for drivers. This is because of the GPS facility that we have adopted. But do you think we can carry our mobile phones in hand every time you are connected with your Google Maps that can be a tough task? So that is why you are expected to carry a windscreen mount. They will go handy even when you want to listen to music.

Safety gear: Hammer, Cutter and Towing Cable

There are certain things that you always have to carry in your car that will add a lot to your safety. This list includes a hammer, cutter and a towing cable. This hammer is designed in such a way that they are soft and can hit the glass and break it. In case of an accident and you get locked up, the hammer will come handy, and the same is the reason you have to carry a cutter to cut your seat belt and a towing cable.


All your night travels, or in case if you have to check the gas level for all this you always need a torch. But apart from all these cases, it is always a good habit to carry a torch. It can come handy in a lot of cases.

An empty can and a funnel:

An empty can always come handy when you run out of gas when you on the go. Most of us when we travel have faced situations where we have run out of gas, and we ruin the whole travel. Likewise, we also never have the habit of carrying an empty can that can help us transport gas that is required.

Medical Kit:

A medical kit is a mandatory thing irrespective of where you travel and how you travel. So carry a medical kit in case of medical emergency. Apart from that if you are a patient suffering from any kind of ailment, then it is advisable that you carry that as well.

Why absolute phasing matters to you…

Imaging is a matter of psychoacoustics, fooling your brain into thinking there is a live performance in front of it, with a height, depth, and width..
It is a matter of sending a signal to your ears which is realistic, that duplicates what the actual event would have sent to your ears, as exactly as possible!

This may seem simple, but it can get complex… And most of the issues that can impede your efforts to accurately reproduce the true sound don’t have to do with frequency response or amplitude. The reason that it is more difficult to establish proper imaging in a car has everything to do with “absolute phasing”… which is the phase relationship of the signals coming from all speakers in your car playing common frequencies as they combine at your ears..  Or, in layman’s terms, it’s how the sound from all the speakers blends at your ears.

This balance can easily be disrupted by many things; having an offset listening position, having multiple sets of speakers reproducing the same frequencies, and even having multiple speakers in the installation that are properly separated with crossovers to isolate the frequencies that they play.

This isn’t to say that you can’t make a car image properly, and have correct frequency response if you have an offset listening position.. …or rear speakers.. or a center channel.. or three-way component sets, but the issues that need to be dealt with to achieve success given these inherent handicaps are signifigant, and should not be disregarded.

First, why “absolute phase” matters more than “relative phase”:

Relative phase – Speakers are fed AC electricity of varying frequencies.  When “correctly” wired, when the positive portion of the current reaches the speaker, the cone moves out.. and when the negative portion of the current reaches the speaker the cone moves in (this happens hundreds and thousands of times per second, depending on the frequency!).  If you wire one speaker “backwards” (+ and – inverted) and one forwards, relative to the each other they are wired relatively “out of phase”.  If both are wired in a like manner, they are relatively “in phase”

Absolute phase – This has everything to do with how the sound generated from the speakers reaches your head, which may have very little to do with how they are actually wired.  If you had exactly the same pathlength between your two speakers, the sound would always reach your head at the same time from your two speakers.  This would mean the “absolute phase” of the two speakers would be perfect.

 However, if one speaker is further away than another, the sound from the farther speaker will take more time to reach your ears.  Even if that is just hundredths of a second, it can mean that a pulse of positive pressure (from the speaker cone moving out) of the one speaker to be reaching you while a pulse of negative pressure from the  other speaker is reaching you at the same time, and the end result is that they cancel each other out.  This would mean that the “absolute phase” of the two speakers is “out of phase” at that frequency.

Interestingly, if this scenario exists, it is frequency dependent… meaning that some frequencies will be “in phase” while others will be “out of phase”, due to the way that each frequency’s wavelength lines up in combination across the two pathlengths in effect.

Illustration showing how two speakers, relatively wired in-phase, can yield results that are absolutely out-of-phase:

If at a certain frequency, exactly 5 waves fit on the left side pathlength, and exactly 6.5 waves fit on the right side pathlength, the waves as they arrive at your head are exactly 180 degrees out of phase with each other, and they will cancel.

Now, with the same pathlengths, at another frequency, a higher frequency, maybe at that higher frequency exactly 9 waves fit on the left side pathlength, and exactly 12 waves fit on the far side pathlength. At that frequency, the waves combine constructively.

Any time you have two speakers playing the same frequency, of different pathlengths, phasing anomalies will occur that make some frequencies cancel, while others combine constructively.

Why absolute phasing is an issue with imaging:

Waves from multiple speakers (common frequencies) combine when they are in phase, cancel when they are out of phase, and combine or cancel to varying degrees depending on exactly how “in phase” or “out of phase” they are.

When you have two speakers of inherently different pathlengths playing the same frequencies (like front and rear speakers), at certain frequencies the wavelengths will line up and combine properly, at other frequencies they will combine negatively and cancel to some degree.

The higher the frequency, the more often in the frequency spectrum this happens… more phasing anomalies per octave. Also, the higher the frequency, the more sensitive your hearing is to minor distortions and disturbances in the sound.    This is why people often suggest at a minimum running a low-pass filter on the rear speakers… to keep the damage constrained to least impacting range as possible.

Your subconscious is the key behind imaging…

Interestingly many of the differences in the reality of the sounds being heard are not factors that are easily listened for by the conscious ear, even to a trained acoustical engineer.. However, it is fairly easy to sit between two speakers for some critical listening to consciously decide whether you think it sounds “real” or not!

It is your subconscious which determines if you believe the sound or not, your conscious mind is simply aware of the status of what it is hearing…  Just like your sense of balance is subconsciously controlled, and your conscious mind is simply aware when you are losing your balance.

The biggest damage that occurs when multiple sound pathlengths are encountered from your listening position is that your subconscious is not fooled, the “image” is not there like it could be.  The cancellations are so narrow in bandwidth that you would most likely be fairly hard pressed to detect any missing frequencies or harmonics in the sound, yet those are subtle clues that your subconscious will pick up on and simply “will not be fooled”!

Try this experiment at home, to see how phasing fools your subconscious, without necessarily seeming to mess up frequency response…

Sit between two speakers at home, equal distance. (And verify your speakers are wired properly first!!)

Play some good reference music, or even better, talk radio.

The voice (or music) should sound well centered, the voice emanating from exactly between the speakers.

Now, shut the stereo off, and flip the phase on just one speaker (swap the + and – wires).

Now listen again.
The music and voice still sound the same, you can hear all the content, haven’t completely seemed to lose any tones..
But now there is no “image”.. it sounds diffused, unrealistic, smeared, right?

THAT’S the sort of damage phasing anomalies can cause…

Do multiple speakers make sense in a car?

Why rear speakers (and center channels, for that matter) typically don’t make sense if imaging is a priority:

If you want to create the impression of a stage in front of you, you shouldn’t have sound coming from behind you… often the argument is that simple.

Think about this:

Stereo recordings are 2 channel things, just left and right.

Many people strive to duplicate this studio-accurate sound. Doing this is difficult enough in a 2-speaker install, in a car, because your seating positions are not exactly centered.. and like we discussed in the phasing document, this will cause problems!.
If you were centrally located exactly between the two speakers, you wouldn’t have a phase difference, and your image would be perfect (in theory).
Unfortunately, seating in a car isn’t close to centered between the two speakers, so forget about instant “perfect imaging”!

And when you add rear speakers, playing the same frequencies as the front, you add additional pathlengths, each of which will be different than the other pathlengths in the car, and now you have 4 speakers causing phasing anomalies, an easy means to imaging disaster. Some frequencies will sound diffused, others will sound as thought they are coming from the rear, bad stuff…

Why does my car have rear speakers?

Understand that car manufacturers don’t care about auto sound… they care about impressing people into buying a car, by saying things like “28 speaker Delco Bose Typhoon Master Premium Stereo!” (and “stereo” would seem to be a misnomer here, with so many speakers! ). I believe solidly that the marketing department originally specified rear speakers for a car, just because it sounds to the average Joe as if you are getting more for your money if you have 4 speakers! Maybe it seems to make more sense.. four seating positions, four speakers.. it seems very intuitive… And honestly, any effort to justify having only 2 speakers in a car could easily be perceived by the public as “oh, look at how that company trying to justify being cheap so they can increase profit margins”…

That doesn’t mean YOU need to perpetuate this marketing mistake – the car companies might be sort of politically “stuck”.. but you aren’t, right?

If you run rear speakers “because I need the midbass the big back speakers provide” you run the risk of creating the illusion that the bass player is sitting in your back seat, which is not how it was recorded, and can be pretty unnatural and disturbing to listen to. The ideal strategy would be to upgrade the front speakers – either quality or size – which would add bass with no penalty. Also, taking the door panel off probably reveals a pretty inferior speaker “baffle”.. if you seal all those holes, you might help your bass response as well!

So why is it bad, though?:

Taking what we now know about absolute phasing, and how speakers of varying pathlengths can interfere destructively with each other, it becomes easy to see how having multiple speakers playing the same frequency can wreak havoc on the phasing response of the signals as they arrive at your ear…

Things are bad enough given the staggered seating position in a car, which virtually ensures that the left and right speakers will never be equal, but adding in two more speakers playing the same frequencies complicates (and most often degrades) things further.

So if you can do without it, don’t include them in your design!
Simple is better… (Remember the K.I.S.S. rule?)
Both from a sound, and cost standpoint! The less you spend ($0) on rear speakers is the more you can spend on nice, high-end front speakers!

The science behind the sound:

The following are actual phasing analysis simulations I performed late last year, using the measurements of my car’s factory locations, a 1995 Honda Civic coupe.

The following plots show the phasing differences due to the factory speaker locations. On the plots, the center line marked “0”, indicates no phasing difference at all, both signals combine in an absolute manner at your head constructively.

The 90 and -90 degree marks indicate points where the speakers are slightly out of phase, by exactly 1/4 wavelength (a 90 degree shift in one direction or the other exists). At this point the speakers no longer combine constructively, but do not combine destructively either, in theory two speakers that are 90 degrees out of phase would be exactly as loud as a single speaker, no better, no worse.

The 180 and -180 degree marks indicate points where the speakers are completely out of phase, by exactly 1/2 wavelength, at which point they would cancel completely. At this point, in theory, the two speakers would cancel to the degree where you would hear nothing.. or, because each ear is a different distance from the speaker, cancellation may be complete at one ear, and not quite at the other, one cue to your subconscious that this sound is not “real”.

Front speakers only:

Note that there are quite a few phasing issues due to nothing other than the left and right speakers having different pathlengths:

Rear Speakers only, running full-range:

Again, note that there are phasing issues with the rear speakers, just due to their left and right speakers having different pathlengths:

Overall combination of both front and rear speakers, all speakers running full range:

Most important to note here is how bad things get when you have all 4 speakers running.. there are many more points where the speakers enter that area above the 90 degree line and below the -90 line, where cancellation will occur.  Interesting to note that things actually improved slightly in the 9,000 Hz to 12,000 Hz range due to the rear speakers being present, although this offers little consolation for the dramatic increase in phasing issues that are caused across the rest of the spectrum:

Rear speakers filtered to 80Hz – 640Hz (bear in mind, crossover slope is not only not considered here, in fact in this example would be a perfect cutoff, which will not exist in real installations):

This illustrates one strategy listed above, if you or your customer insists on retaining the rear speakers, imaging damage can be minimized by constraining the rear speakers to a small range.  In this example, the rear speakers are constrained to play 80Hz to 640Hz, a full two octaves, which is actually a broader pass band than I typically would run, but I felt that it would better represent the somewhat narrower range I would use, given that my calculations did not take into account crossover slope:

Overall combination of both sets of speakers, rear speakers filtered to 80Hz – 640Hz:

Here, you can see that while this is worse (from a phase perspective) than running only front speakers, that things are dramatically improved over running both front and rear speakers full-range.  The plot above 640Hz, in fact, looks identical to the “front speakers only” plot.

verall plot representing all speakers in install playing, given no rear speakers installed:

Obviously, this looks just like front speaker only plot because rears are not present.  Personally, this is the ideal that I shoot for in my installs:

Note that these plots were made using measurements to my stock door locations. 

If you wanted to further improve on things, equalizing your pathlengths via means like kick-panels and/or HLCD compression horn drivers under the dash can effectively be used, which would result in a front speaker plot that would resemble more of the rear speaker plot shown above, if not even better, depending on the pathlength difference you end up with!

Potentially legitimate reasons for running rear speakers:

…first question you should as yourself is “why do I want rear fill?” If you don’t have a good answer (and rear passengers are not a good answer! ), you should start by NOT running rear fill…
…I consider rear fill an advanced topic, an advanced element, that has an additional expense associated with it to boot…

I believe you shouldn’t spend money on something that has a greater chance of degrading your sound and imaging than it does of enhancing your sound.
After all, if you don’t have a good reason for needing rear fill… I believe you are better off skipping it entirely.

But let’s say you decide you do want rear fill..
There are some properties of sound to consider, such as the simulation of a live listening environment (personally, I strive not to color the music artificially, I strive for accurate reproduction, studio reproduction, although admittedly live tracks won’t sound as “live”, however studio tracks will sound very “studio” realistic, and 99.9% of what I listen to are albums, not “live” recordings)…

In a live listening environment, you might be inside a concert facility, with a rear wall, which will reflect sound back at you. Maybe you want your rear fill to simulate this.
Bear in mind that short wavelengths don’t travel as far, they degrade quicker… and long wavelengths travel very far..
So accurate reflections would simulate this, reproducing just the frequencies that would ‘live” after a long travel and reflection. Another good argument for the low-pass filter on the rear fill!

And bear in mind, it is still difficult convincingly simulating these reflections, as with a real reflection there would be quite a delay before arrival at your head, while in a car there won’t be any delay… maybe those of us who are Electrical Engineers out there wouldn’t find it much of a challenge to build a custom delay circuit for the rear speakers, but for the rest of us, unfortunately there aren’t many commercial products on the market to provide this delay!

My thought is, in a largely glass and plastic reflective car interior, if you only have front speakers, there will be sound that travels backwards, reflects off rear glass and travels forward… which is a better approximation of those live reflections than direct, non-delayed sound from rear speakers, but admittedly falls short of creating an ambiance of an interior larger than a car.

NOW… The biggest reason probably to run rear fill might be if your front speakers don’t provide enough midbass…. this can be tricky because you don’t want it to sound like the bass player is in your rear seat, but sometimes you need some midbass support… either a last resort, or the install can’t budget an upgrade that would improve the situation up front.

Personally I bandpass rear fill in the 100-200Hz region, just that narrow bandpass to provide a little ambiance… maybe to 300Hz if I am feeling generous. But bear in mind that although it doesn’t sound like much, 100-200Hz is one entire octave of the musical spectrum!

Bandpassing the rear fill around this range minimizes the frequencies that cause phasing anomalies, provides midbass support, and covers the range of frequencies that would most survive a reflection in a live listening environment.

Freebies via not using rear fill!

The best benefit to me, is making your subwoofer more efficient! In a coupe or sedan, removing your rear speakers and leaving the holes vacant allows your subwoofer to exist in the same airspace as your interior, like a hatchback… the bass can flow into the interior unconstrained. This can make for quite an improvement…

Sorry, BMW owners, your Sherman-tank-solid sealed rear deck construction won’t gain you anything here…

However, for those of us not owning BMW’s yet, there are cost savings to not running rear fill… With all the money we spend on high end speakers, head units and processors with low distortion numbers and high voltage values, powerful, high quality amplifiers… Isn’t it nice to improve sound quality by NOT buying something?

You don’t need to purchase speakers for the back.. you don’t need to purchase amplification for the back… the reduction in amplification might mean lower costs in power wire, RCA cabling, speaker wiring, etc… it’s a win-win situation!

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